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Mindelo Anchorage, Sao Vincente, Cape Verdes |
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On approaching Sao Vincente and Sao Antao from the NE be aware of the compression zone between the islands and be prepared to reef quickly, typically winds can be accelerated from 10 to 25 knots. The rock/light marks the entrance to Mindelo bay. Anchor in about 5 metres.
This is a well sheltered anchorage with all round protection. Even when the prevailing north easterlies were gusting to 40 knots there was no fetch to speak of.
There is also a small pontoon with room for 6/8 boats berthed stern/bow to. A locking gate provides security. There is water but no electricity on the pontoon. Prices were steep at US $40 per day for a 38' yacht.On approaching Sao Vincente and Sao Antao from the NE be aware of the compression zone between the islands and be prepared to reef quickly, typically winds can be accelerated from 10 to 25 knots. The rock/light marks the entrance to Mindelo bay. Anchor in about 5 metres.You must clear in and out of individual islands within the Cape Verdes chain. This involves a trip to both immigration and the port police in Mindelo, not an arduous process but the police insisted on keeping the original ship's papers for the duration of our stay. One thing the clearing process did provide was the opportunity to observe the good old typewriter at work - I could not recall the last time I'd seen one in action
There is a boat yard that looks after the local fishing fleet and lift out facilities are available. We ourselves had a simple machining job done and another boat had some fairly extensive fabrication work done while we were there. |
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A network of boat boys provide a water taxi service from boat to shore, we paid 200CVE per trip. They can also supply fuel and water and will arrange for your laundry and profess to be able to supply virtually anything that is required. Always agree prices with them beforehand.
If you choose to use your own tender this appeared to perfectly safe and your dinghy will be minded while you are ashore - 100CVE appeared to take care of this.
This was a bit scary for somebody used to Europe. There were no ATM machines that enabled you to procure cash with the plastic we have come to rely on. There were machines that would change notes for local currency, we changed Euros and US dollars and there were several banks and bureau de changes.
Shopping - several supermarkets but do not expect the kind of choice you will generally find in Europe or the US. A couple of markets selling fresh produce although the quality of the produce varied greatly. An extensive fish market was selling numerous species, Tuna and Dorado I recognised but there appeared to be a lot of room for experimentation with the menu. We bought Lobster from fishermen who visited the boat at anchor and paid 10 euros apiece. |
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For a day out from Mindelo take a trip to San Antao. 10 miles across the canal and about one hour by ferry - departs, Mindelo, 08.00 or 12.00 and returns at 16.00 from San Antao
Once across there arrange a taxi - either a mini bus or in our case an open backed pick up with bench seating (take your own cushions). The island tour will last all day, about 6 hours and the price is negotiable - four off us paid 15,000CVE apiece. You initially climb 1500m through typical volcanic country and then amazingly things start to green up (the height at which enough rain falls). Once over a ridge you are amongst steep sided fertile valleys where you will find growing, bananas, coffee and sugar cane from which the local grog is produced. This potent brew benefits enormously from the addition of coca cola (or just about anything you can lay your hands on) |
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Marina Rubicon, Playa Blanca, Lanzarotte, Canary Islands |
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Marina Rubicon is situated on the southern coast of Lanzarotte. On approaching the marina beware of a second set of port/starboard hand marks, serving a small area for local fishing boats, close to the entrance of the marina.
It is a new marina in the final stages of completion (they were still constructing some pontoons and an internet cafe was imminent). Facilities included a bar serving snacks, shower block and a launderette. Electric and water are available on the pontoons and although there are some question marks about water quality (desalinated) in the eastern Canaries we topped off our tanks prior to the Cape Verdes and an Atlantic crossing. The staff in the reception area were particularly friendly and helpful. They were also planning wireless internet access throughout the marina and while a little vague about costing the suggestion was a fee of 2 euros per day for this facility. I'd have liked to have seen it in operation. |
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The town of Playa Blanca is a pleasant 20/30 minute walk from the marina along the shore. While obviously developed for tourists the buildings are all low rise and we did not feel overwhelmed by concrete as is often the case in some of the Spanish Costas. There are many bars and restaurants serving a wide range of food - Spanish, Italian, German, Chinese and Pizzas.
Buses depart to other parts of the island and there is a regular ferry from the harbour to Fuerteventura and it's beaches, reckoned to be the finest in the Canaries |
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Other attractions on Lanzarotte include the site of a now dormant volcano. Not so dormant back in the 18th century though, this monster is credited with an eruption that lasted 6, yes SIX years. The site, a national park, includes a restaurant where you can have your meat barbecued by the volcano's residual heat. You can see displays of water turned to steam and wood bursting into flames when placed just below the surface of the ground. The soil temperature 15cm below the surface is still 100 deg C. A coach trip throughout the park, with some stunning opportunities of photos, lasted 45 minutes with an audio commentary and cost 6 euros
We also took a tour of some extensive caves formed by volcanic activity, about 45 minutes in duration the tour is completed with the secret of Lanzarotte. No sorry - it wouldn't be a secret if I told you would it. Price - 6 euros |
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