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Cruising Guide Harbours, Marinas, Anchorages & Moorings |
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On approaching Sao Vincente and Sao Antao from the NE be aware of the compression zone between the islands and be prepared to reef quickly, typically winds can be accelerated from 10 to 25 knots. The rock/light marks the entrance to Mindelo bay. Anchor in about 5 metres. This is a well sheltered anchorage with all round protection. Even when the prevailing north easterlies were gusting to 40 knots there was no fetch to speak of. There is also a small pontoon with room for 6/8 boats berthed stern/bow to. A locking gate provides security. There is water but no electricity on the pontoon. Prices were steep at US $40 per day for a 38’ yacht |
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There is a boat yard that looks after the local fishing fleet and lift out facilities are available. We ourselves had a simple machining job done and another boat had some fairly extensive fabrication work done while we were there. A network of “boat boys” provide a water taxi service from boat to shore, we paid 200CVE per trip. They can also supply fuel and water and will arrange for your laundry and profess to be able to supply virtually anything that is required. Always agree prices with them beforehand. If you choose to use your own tender this appeared to perfectly safe and your dinghy will be minded while you are ashore - 100CVE appeared to take care of this. |
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Club Nautico across the road from the dinghy dock attracts boat crews, they serve drinks and food and can also take care of your laundry - 700CVE for a 5kg bag The town of Mindelo, the second largest in the Cape Verdes, is a little scruffy but is both lively and friendly. Some English is spoken but Portuguese and French predominate. There are several restaurants, main courses are priced at 600-900 CVE. We tried O’Cordells, Picau Pau and Saludo all of which were good. Communications - My mobile phone, although picking up a service provider, did not allow dialling out, this could have been overcome by purchasing a local SIM card (50000CVE) which seemed prohibitive for a short stay. It was possible to make international calls, at reasonable rates, from pay phones within shops set up for that purpose. Internet cafes abound although the service was not particularly reliable. |
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This was a bit scary for somebody used to Europe. There were no ATM machines that enabled you to procure cash with the plastic we have come to rely on. There were machines that would change notes for local currency, we changed Euros and US dollars and there were several banks and bureau de changes. Shopping - several “supermarkets” but do not expect the kind of choice you will generally find in Europe or the US. A couple of markets selling fresh produce although the quality of the produce varied greatly. An extensive fish market was selling numerous species, Tuna and Dorado I recognised but there appeared to be a lot of room for experimentation with the menu. We bought Lobster from fishermen who visited the boat at anchor and paid 10 euros apiece. |
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For a day out from Mindelo take a trip to San Antao. 10 miles across the “canal” and about one hour by ferry - departs, Mindelo, 08.00 or 12.00 and returns at 16.00 from San Antao Once across there arrange a taxi - either a mini bus or in our case an open backed pick up with bench seating (take your own cushions). The island tour will last all day, about 6 hours and the price is negotiable - four off us paid 15,000CVE apiece. You initially climb 1500m through typical volcanic country and then amazingly things start to green up (the height at which enough rain falls). Once over a ridge you are amongst steep sided fertile valleys where you will find growing, bananas, coffee and sugar cane from which the local “grog” is produced. This potent brew benefits enormously from the addition of coca cola (or just about anything you can lay your hands on) |
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